Ravenna in the footsteps of Theodoric

The itinerary starts from the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, built by Theodoric as his palatine basilica, next to the royal palace.

Although its exterior is made of simple brick, the interior is astonishing, featuring one of the most famous mosaic cycles in the world, glowing with a warm golden light.

Must-see

• the mosaics depicting the processions of the Martyrs and the Virgins
• the representations of the cities of Ravenna and Classe in the 6th century

Curiosities

Originally, instead of the religious processions – introduced as part of the religious policy of the emperor Justinian I – the mosaics depicted Theodoric and his court. These were later removed during Byzantine period because they were considered heretical, as the Goths were Arians and denied the divine nature of Christ.

A few steps away stands a misterious building: Theodoric's Palace.

To know

The area corresponds to that of the imperial palace, where important floor mosaics have been discovered, bearing witness to more than five centuries of life in the ancient imperial quarter.

Curiosities

Despite its name, many scholars believe this is not actually the royal palace, but rather the remains of an early Medieval church, identified as San Salvatore ad Calchi.

Moving into the heart of the historical centre, you reach the Arian Baptistery.

The exterior is simple and made of brick, while its octagolan plan and structure recall those of the Neonian Baptistery. 

Inside, at the centre of the dome, you can admire the mosaic of the baptism of Christ, surrounded by the twelve apostles, forming a frame set against a dazzling background of golden tesserae.

To know

As evidence of a peaceful coexistence between barbarians and Romans – namely between Arian and Orthodox Christianity in Ravenna at the time of Theodoric – you can still see today, in Piazzetta degli Ariani, both the Basilica of Spirito Santo, which was the former Arian cathedral, and the Arian Baptistery.

Piazza del Popolo, the city's main square, hides a curious detail.

On some of the capitals of the Palazzetto Veneziano, next to the Palazzo Comunale, you can spot the monogram of Theodoric the Great. Like a seal, the letters are intertwined, surrounded by an elegant wreath of leaves and topped by a small cross.

These elements testify to Theodoric's active patronage and the widespread presence of royal power throughout the city. They come from a 6th century Gothic church, demolished in the 15th century to make way for the Rocca Brancaleone fortress.

Among the hidden and invaluable treasures of Ravenna at the times of Theodoric, the Archiepiscopal Chapel, also known as St. Andrew Chapel, is a must-see. Today it is housed within the Archiepiscopal Museum. 

It is a small oratory built during the reign of Theodoric the Great, but commissioned by the bishop. Its refined mosaics celebrate the figure of Christ and the saints of both East and West as the one true path of salvation.

To know

At a time when the royal court professed the Arian faith, this intimate space stood as a stronghold and symbol of orthodoxy.

The National Museum of Ravenna, housed in the former monastery of the Basilica of San Vitale and just a few steps away from the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, is an essential stop to deepen your exploration of Theodoric-era Ravenna.

Among its vast and valuable collections, one section is dedicate to artifacts from the time of the Goths.

Curiosities

Among the most unusual objects are the lead fistulae – pipes that once formed part of the ancient aqueduct system, which was restored by Theodoric the Great.

Just outside the walls of the city and the historical centre, near the Rocca Brancaleone fortress and the Darsena area, stands the Mausoleum of Theodoric. Among the most famous and important monuments of the 6th century, it is the only example in the world of a monumental tomb of a barbarian king.

The mausoleum, built in bright Aurisina stone shaped into large, perfectly squared blocks laid dry, is made unmistakable by its extraordinary monolithic dome. Perhaps for this reason as well, the mausoleum continues to amaze and fascinate, bearing witness to the exceptional construction skills of the time. 

Curiosities

The dome is made from a single block of stone measuring over 10 metres in diameter and about 3 metres of height. To this day, it remains a mystery how such an enormous mass of stone was transported and lifted.

The itinerary ends in Classe, just a few kilometres from Ravenna. Here once stood the Ancient Port of Classe, now an important archaeological site, as well as the splendid Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, built in the 6th century after the reign of Theodoric the Great.

To complete this adventurous and fascinating journey into Theodoric's history, a stop at the Classis Museum is a must. Within the broader narrative of the history of Ravenna, Classe and Romagna, the museum route helps visitors to understand teh city's fundamental role in the European context and the importance of Theodoric's reign. Particularly captivating is the so-called Tesoretto di Classe: a 6th century silverware set in which, on one of the spoons, the monogram of Theodoric appears. 

Tip

To complete the experience, combine your visit with the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.