Malatesta and Montefeltro

The itinerary to discover Malatesta & Montefeltro starts from Rimini, more precisely from Castel Sismondo, or the Castle of Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta. Sigismondo began its construction on March 20, 1437, the penultimate Wednesday of Lent, at 6:48 p.m.: day, hour and minute were fixed with extreme meticulousness by consulting the court astrologers.

Its present form does not perfectly render the idea of its majesty in 1446, the year it was completed; however, it is impossible not to be impressed by the large square towers that surround it, which once rose from the deep moat. Inside is Palazzo Isotta, a building probably built as a residence for Isotta degli Atti, first a young lover who later became his third wife. Today the castle is home to the Fellini Museum.

Of the sincere love devoid of political interests that bound Sigismondo to her, traces can be found especially inside the Malatesta Temple, built to celebrate the Malatesta lineage, where the lord of Rimini also had the initials S and I engraved repeatedly forever intertwined. The temple was never completed due to the decline of the Malatesta family, but two masterpieces of world art can be admired inside: a fresco by Piero della Francesca and the Rimini Crucifix created by Giotto in 1300.

The second planned stop is in near Cesena, where you will visit two priceless memorials of the period when Sigismondo Malatesta and Federico da Montefeltro spent time, money and energy fighting each other.

The Rocca Malatestiana [Malatesta Fortress], located on the top of Garampo Hill and surrounded by the Parco della Rimembranza, was built to defend the city of Cesena. From here you can admire the hills of Bertinoro and Monte Maggio, as well as visit the Museo Storico dell’Agricoltura [Historical Agriculture Museum] set up in the smaller tower, Torre Femmina.

The main tower, Torre Maschio, hosts exhibitions with the ceramics and the majolicas unearthed in the archaeological sites in the historic city centre. In the walls around the two bastions, there is a series of connected tunnels, and when you walk down the creepy corridor beware of the ghosts: once the prison kitchen, offices and the caretaker's quarters, in recent times several unexplained paranormal phenomena have occurred...

From here, the only place left to visit is the Biblioteca Malatestiana, defined as "the heart of culture in Romagna". Founded in the mid-fifteenth century, it is a monastic library with exceptional historical significance as it holds two records of the upmost importance. As a matter of fact, it was the first public library in both Italy and in Europe, and is the only example of a perfectly preserved building, complete with furnishings and a monastic library from humanistic times that has survived to this day.

After a day dedicated to culture and the Malatesta heritage, it is time to enjoy Cesena’s nightlife before starting the second day of the itinerary, when Sorrivoli, Montefiore Conca and Montegridolfo will be called upon in a whirlwind.

Gourmet tip: Cesena is one of the undisputed capitals of piadina di Romagna [simple local flat bread]: you just need to stop at one of the many kiosks around town to savour one traditionally made. To best appreciate its incomparable fragrance, the secret is to eat it while hot, just a few minutes after it’s cooked. 

Your second day starts by heading to Sorrivoli: 98 inhabitants, one of the most important puppet festivals in the world, and a castle once owned by the archbishops of Ravenna and then handed down to the Malatesta family in 1237.

From Sorrivoli, you will move on to Montefiore Conca, one of the most enchanting Italian hamlets where you’ll find another Rocca Malatestiana as Montefiore used to be the medieval capital of the Conca Valley and one of the Malatesta seignories that has remained most intact.

The fortress, a stone sentinel with a stern and imposing structure, stands on a cliff from which, on a clear day, the seascape extends to the Croatian coast, encompassing the Adriatic shores from Ravenna to Fano. When exploring its rooms, you can feel how it must have been to live in the castle in medieval times in its many facets: everyday life, court life, crafts, and military operations.

However, what Montefiore Conca’s fortress wishes to tell the most is the romantic and overwhelming love story that happened within these walls between Costanza Malatesta and Ormanno, a knight from a distant duchy of High Germany.
 

Leaving Montefiore Conca behind you, it is time to reach the last stop of this itinerary in the lands contested by the Malatesta and the Montefeltro families: Montegridolfo.

This village of just over 1000 inhabitants embodies the rivalry between these two noble families. In fact, due to its position right on the border, over the centuries Montegridolfo was ruled by both the Duchy of Montefeltro and the Malatesti, becoming the subject of military clashes and conflicts. This is precisely why Montegridolfo was designed and built with the defensive characteristics of a "cassero" [quarterdeck], with a rectangular plan equipped with a tower to reinforce the town walls.

It also houses the Museo della Linea dei Goti [Museum of the WWII Gothic Line], full of material from the battle and the breakthrough of German defences that occurred at the end of August/ beginning of September 1944, displaying weapons and several war relics of the opposing armies.

By now you might be wondering about the best way to end this itinerary through Romagna’s past. Obviously at the table: the taverns in these hills prepare excellent tagliatelle al ragù e ai funghi [ribbons of egg pasta with meat sauce and mushrooms].