The lower Reggio Emilia Plain was historically dominated by the Gonzaga dynasty, who left important testimonies of their presence, such as aristocratic residences, fortresses, but also land reclamation works which enabled agriculture and the local economy to flourish.
Our tour begins in Novellara, which for centuries served as the "little capital" of the longest-running Gonzaga lordship. As soon as you arrive in Piazzale Marconi, let the porticos of Piazza Unità d’Italia embrace you: this is the beating heart of the village.
Must-sees
The majestic Gonzaga Fortress (Rocca dei Gonzaga). It’s not just a castle; it’s an art treasure chest. Inside, the Gonzaga Museum will leave you speechless, especially the rooms dedicated to the genius of Lelio Orsi, the court artist who called this place home. If you love vintage artifacts, the Jesuit Apothecary (Spezieria dei Gesuiti) will enchant you with one of Europe’s most precious collections of pharmaceutical jars.
To taste
Head up to the attic of the Fortress: this is where the Municipal Acetaia rests. The intense aroma you’ll smell is that of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia. A "black gold" treasure that ages for decades in small barrels made of different precious woods.
Tip
If possible, plan your trip for the first Sunday of the month. This is the only day the Acetaia opens its doors to visitors to reveal the secrets of this liquid gold.
Leaving Novellara behind, we head toward Reggiolo. But before entering the center, take a deep breath: you are crossing the Valli, ecological rebalancing areas where nature reigns supreme among canals and cultivated fields.
Must-see
Once you reach Vicolo Castello, you will stand before the Medieval Fortress. Commissioned by the Gonzagas in the 14th century, it is a bastion that tells stories of sieges and nobility. After the visit, the best way to enjoy Reggiolo is at a slow pace:
To taste
Did you know that Pumpkin Tortelli (Tortelli di Zucca) are a true institution here? Unlike other areas, the local recipe seeks the perfect balance between the sweetness of the pumpkin, the saltiness of Parmigiano Reggiano, and the spicy kick of mostarda. A contrast of flavors that is pure poetry for the palate!
Under the Gonzaga dynasty, the town of Guastalla reached the height of its splendour: celebrated architects such as Giunti and Volterra were called upon, it hosted artists such as Guercino and Campi and poets such as Tasso and Guarini. Thanks to the care of its dukes, it became one of the most important fortified cities in Northern Italy. The 16th-century urban layout is still widely visible: the ancient Via Gonzaga is a grid-plan layout of streets leading to Piazza Mazzini, the heart of the town, dominated by the beautiful statue of Ferrante Gonzaga by Leone Leoni. Facing the square are the 16th-century Cathedral, with its late 19th-century façade, and the Ducal Palace, the town's most representative building.
From the historical centre of Guastalla, following via Lido Po, it is possible to reach the banks of the ‘Great River’ (Po River), rent a bike and leisurely discover the landscape of the lower Reggio Emilia Plain: Guastalla - Boretto by bike | Lands of the Po River and Gonzaga.
Our final stop is Guastalla, the ancient city-state that, under the Gonzagas, became one of the most important fortified capitals of Northern Italy. Walking along Via Gonzaga, you can still breathe the atmosphere of the 16th century.
Good to know
Guastalla’s urban layout is a masterpiece of geometry. The grid-like street system will lead you straight to Piazza Mazzini, where the statue of Ferrante Gonzaga (by the famous sculptor Leone Leoni) proudly watches over passersby. Flanking the square are the city's giants: the Duomo and the sumptuous Ducal Palace.
Events
If you love greenery and biodiversity, you cannot miss "Piante e Animali Perduti" (Lost Plants and Animals), usually held in late September. It is a famous national event that transforms the city center into an open-air garden filled with rural breeds and ancient botanical varieties.
Visiting tips
Don’t leave without saying goodbye to the "Great River." From Via Lido Po, you can easily reach the riverbank. Here, you can rent a bicycle and pedal along the cycling path that connects Guastalla to Boretto. It is the perfect way to end the day, watching the sun set over the waters of the Po.
