An itinerary that combines a gastronomic tour of typical Piacenza products and an excursion into the nature of the Val Nure, Piacenza's most uncontaminated valley.
Even the poorest materials give great satisfaction in the kitchen, if well processed and presented. Among the various types of stuffed pasta typical of Piacenza, the most special is the tortelli con la coda (with tail), which originated in Vigolzone in honor of the arrival of the poet Francesco Petrarca.
Going up the Nure Valley, the taste stops not to be missed are: Albarola, where you can taste fig pie, Bettola for its fried bortellina and Farini, to savor potato pie.
All around, the landscape changes, going from the flat area in which there is the village of Grazzano Visconti to the very first high ground with the industrial archaeology of Ponte dell'Olio, all the way to the Upper Nure Valley, full of paths, ancient lakes and woods, where you can enjoy long walks and splendid views, far from the city chaos.
Leaving the city of Piacenza and heading into the Nure Valley, a first must-see stop is Grazzano Visconti.
This village is the creation of Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone, who inherited a 14th-century castle and transformed it into an eclectic environment, building around it a village in a neo-Gothic style.
Walking along the cobblestone streets of the village offers a step back in time, evoking the fashions of the early 20th century and the intrigues of a large family depicted by Giuseppe himself under the Institution's palace. Among his children, the most famous is the director Luchino Visconti.
Our next stop takes us to Vigolzone, in search of an osteria or trattoria that offers tortelli con la coda. Once under the rule of the Anguissola family, the castle in this village was also home to the famous poet Francesco Petrarca.
Legend said that the noble Bernardo Anguissola in an effort to honor his guest, instructed his maids to make the stuffed dumplings more visually appealing. This led to the creation of the signature "braided" shape of these tortelli, a tradition that continues to this day, with each one meticulously handmade. The filling combines creamy ricotta and herbs, and you can choose between two rich sauces: classic butter and sage or a savory mushroom sauce.
For dessert, depending on the season, don't miss the fig cake from Albarola, a small village just a short distance away. Albarola is home to a historic country villa and one of the wineries that produce the renowned DOC Colli Piacentini wines.
After the lunch, we head south once again. A picturesque bridge over the Nure stream leads us to Ponte dell'Olio, where a fascinating piece of industrial archaeology can be found: the historic Cementi Rossi furnaces.
Continuing on, our journey brings us to Bettola, a vibrant town especially during the summer months, where a monument to Christopher Columbus stands in the main square. It is believed that the famous explorer’s family hailed from Bettola itself, adding a rich historical connection to the town.
In Bettola, you can visit the Christopher Columbus Tower, open by appointment, and nearby, a climb up the hill reveals an imposing fortress, a remnant of the Farnese family, the ducal rulers of Piacenza.
Bettola is also a stop for food lovers, as it’s the birthplace of the bortellina bettolese, a delicious, crispy pancake made from water and flour. Shaped like a golden, puffy treat, it pairs perfectly with cured meats and cheeses.
Enjoy it as an appetizer before settling in for a peaceful night’s rest.
In the morning, we head back into the hills and in Farini, where a must-try local delicacy awaits: the potato pie.
As tradition goes, on the feast day of San Savino, potatoes that were bruised during the harvest were boiled and mashed. This mash was then mixed with sautéed lard, butter, onions, and a generous sprinkling of grated cheese. The flavorful filling was then wrapped in pastry and baked to perfection.
This delicious dish is perfect as an appetizer or snack, but it also makes for an excellent take-away treat to enjoy on a leisurely picnic, surrounded by the stunning landscapes of the area.
It’s time to lace up your hiking boots. From Farini you take the road to the hamlet of Mareto. Here, you leave the car behind and embark on a scenic hiking loop (moderate difficulty) around Mount Aserei: a route of about 11 kilometers, so be sure to come prepared with a map, water, and suitable clothing.
The reference trails, marked by the CAI, are 027 and 151. From Mareto, continue towards the village of Fontanone, where the loop officially begins. For the ascent, head west toward Cima Liscaro, and for the return leg, proceed eastward.
At the summit of Mount Aserei (1.432 meters), you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of both the Nure and Trebbia valleys. The panorama is especially captivating in the spring, when the pastures come alive with blooms. Along the way, the meadows provide perfect spots for a relaxing picnic.
For more details on the route, check the VisitPiacenza website or pick up a printed guide, available for sale in the area.
After completing the hike, it’s time to head back and looking forward to planning your next adventure in the Piacenza hills.
