Riding a motorbike in the lands of Matilda of Canossa

Coming from the Po Valley, from the cities of Reggio Emilia or Parma, you can proceed towards the hills and admire “Quattrocastella” four Matildic castles on their respective hills, the most famous of which is that of Bianello. 

Proceeding along the itinerary, you will reach Ciano d'Enza, in the valley of the river with the same name, and climb along a winding road admiring the view, with the plain in front (in the evening the effect of the lights is beautiful; in winter, if you are lucky you can see the Alps).

The climb to Canossa Castle  is one of the most scenic sections, between hairpin bends and open views of the plain. You can see the castles of Rossena, with the Rossenella watchtower, and Canossa on top of the white sandstone cliff where the remains of the castle stand, preceded, on the approach route, by the ravines above which the road runs, against the backdrop of the Enza valley.

Travel tips

• The Castle of Canossa, which has been subjected to the wrath of the centuries, is now a site of archaeological importance with its ancient high walls. In the small but complete Museum inside, a large model perfectly reconstructs the appearance of the fortification during Matilda's time. 
• The "Rupe di Canossa" municipal vinegar factory, which produces traditional balsamic vinegar at the base of the climb to the castle.

Deviations

• Towards Rossena: the castle is built on a massif stone, the serpentine red that gives the place its name. The visit is possible and also the overnight stay, hosting the castle a hostel.
• A few kilometers to the small village of Votigno, rebuilt with exquisite turrets and porticoes, pinnacles, battlements, and sandstone decorations. The place is suggestive, gathered around a small square that looks like something out of a book of fairy tales. 

We continue through inland landscapes and well-preserved historic villages such as Cerredolo dei Coppi, with a 16th-century mansion house at the entrance to the old village, and Cortogno, with its stone houses and small church, a really well-preserved setting, where there is also a local restaurant and km 0 outlet.

We are in the Tassobbio valley, an area dotted with mills and ancient hamlets.

We then come to Sarzano, where there is the Matildic castle, with its small Baroque church, now the site of exhibitions and shows.

The hamlet, also refurbished through the intervention of the Municipality of Casina, is equipped for hospitality and catering. A must stop because from the castle tower there is a 360-degree view from the Emilian Apennines, to the Po Valley, to the Alps on a clear day.

Detours

In Faieto it will be worth making a detour, not a very short one, to the church of Pianzo, among the most significant in an area in itself rich in sacred buildings dating, in their first construction, to the Canossa era. The small church preserves architectural fragments from the 13th century to the 18th-century reconstruction. 
 

This stage is ideal for driving, between curves and authentic, panoramic views of the Apennines.

From Sarzano it is only a few minutes downhill to Casina, a strategic center for those who want to explore the area.

The itinerary continues through the rolling hills to Migliara, continuing to Leguigno, where the castle that once belonged to the Fogliani nobles is located.

From here a short detour allows you to see the Romanesque oratory of Beleo, small but delightful.

Possibility of returning toward Reggio Emilia along the SS63 or following more scenic historic routes, such as the ducal route that passed through Monchio dei Ferri, Costaferrata, and Sordiglio, ancient towns that preserve traces of their history.

For a more relaxed ending, among back roads and authentic villages.

Detour

The most interesting center, Bergogno, is a little way from Costaferrata, but characterized by striking architectural evidence.