Autumn in the Romagna Apennines is a special season. The woods of the Casentinesi Forests, Monte Falterona and Campigna National Park are bathed in shades of red and gold, the villages come alive with festivals, and the scents of the undergrowth – truffles, chestnuts and mushrooms – take centre stage on the table.
This three-day itinerary takes you on a journey of discovery through the Forlì hinterland, amidst nature, small villages and culinary traditions. A leisurely journey along footpaths, through rolling hills and to festivals celebrating the quintessential flavours of autumn.
The stops include Santa Sofia, Premilcuore, Dovadola and Cusercoli, four places that capture the true spirit of the Apennine Romagna: ancient woods, historic fortresses, hermitages nestled in the countryside and a cuisine that is simple yet rich in flavour.
The itinerary is suitable for everyone and can be enhanced with short nature walks, scenic hikes or culinary stops at local farmhouses and trattorias.
The ideal time to experience it is between September and November, when the forests burst into colour and the calendar of autumn festivals brings life to villages and squares.
For lovers of the great outdoors and mountain walks, we also recommend:
We recommend staying in Santa Sofia, Premilcuore or Civitella di Romagna, as these towns are centrally located along the route and offer a range of accommodation options, including B&Bs and farm stays.
In the heart of the Casentinesi Forests National Park, Santa Sofia is one of the most picturesque gateways to the natural beauty of the Romagna Apennines.
Between September and October, the woods surrounding the village offer a unique spectacle: the autumn foliage, when beech and maple trees turn shades of red, orange and yellow.
Travel tips
To taste
Among the local specialities, Tortello alla Lastra stands out, typical of the Upper Bidente Valley: a thin sheet of pasta cooked on hot stone slabs (hence the name ‘Alla lastra’) stuffed with potatoes, pumpkin or ricotta and aromatic herbs.
Events
Half an hour from Santa Sofia lies Premilcuore, a small mountain village nestled in the lush greenery of the Rabbi Valley, where nature dominates the landscape. A corner of unspoilt nature in the heart of the Romagna Apennines.
To visit
● Grotta Urlante, with its powerful and evocative atmosphere.
● Cascata della Sega, a short distance from the first, more secluded but equally spectacular.
● Nature Trail: from the hamlet of Fiumicello, an easy circular route with a gentle gradient, leading to the ancient Mengozzi Mill and the ruins of old settlements.
Here, the sound of water flowing between the rocks creates a wild and fascinating atmosphere.
October is also the season of the stag’s bellow, the powerful call of the males during the rutting season.
In the Casentino Forests Park, Monte Falterona and Campigna, guided excursions are organised, accompanied by tastings of typical local produce, designed for families and children to listen to this natural spectacle and immerse themselves in the magic of the forest.
An exciting experience to get in touch with nature at its most authentic, forming part of Autunno Slow, the autumn festival which every year offers a packed programme of events dedicated to those who love to experience the woods ‘at a slower pace’.
Events
Chestnut Festival – held on the second and third Sundays in October, when autumn is in the air and in the undergrowth of the chestnut groves surrounding the village. As well as tasting, visitors can pick chestnuts, stroll along centuries-old paths, spot mushrooms and small animals, or go on e-bike rides through the golden landscapes.
To taste
Less than 30 km from Premilcuore lies Dovadola, where you can soak up the authentic atmosphere of the village, with its quiet alleyways and views over the Montone Valley.
To see
In the historic centre, the following are well worth a visit:
Nearby
The picturesque Sanctuary of Monte Paolo, a spiritual retreat surrounded by nature, ideal for a break immersed in tranquillity and breathtaking views.
Curiosity
A scenic hill walk of around 3 km in total starts from the village, taking in dirt tracks and cultivated fields with splendid views of the valley. It is suitable for everyone and can be covered on foot in an hour, without any particular difficulty. Ideal for those looking for a quick, scenic and peaceful walk. The name recalls Giuseppe Garibaldi’s passage through these areas during the Risorgimento, making the walk not only a nature walk but also linked to local historical memory.
Events
The traditional Dovadola Truffle Fair and Festival – held on the last two Sundays in October – where the local truffle takes centre stage in dishes such as tagliatelle, meticulously hand-rolled by the pasta makers.
The final stop on the itinerary is Cusercoli, a cosy village and hamlet of Civitella di Romagna.
The medieval Castello dei Conti Guidi dominates the landscape with its hanging gardens and museum spaces, offering a perfect balance of
history, scenery and tradition. It is a particularly picturesque destination on autumn days, when the colours of the valley make the experience even more intense.
Tips for visiting between river and hills
A circular nature trail starts from the castle, nestled in the Bidente valley. Winding its way through the river, countryside and small rural hamlets, it partly follows the Via Romea Germanica, an ancient pilgrimage route that linked central Europe to Rome.
The trail leads to:
Events
The Fine White Truffle Fair – held on the second and third Sundays in November. Stalls run by local truffle hunters, food stands serving dishes dedicated to this precious “diamond of the earth”, and cultural events bring the streets of the historic centre to life, culminating in the
award ceremony for the most fragrant truffle.
To taste
Situated along the Colli di Forlì-Cesena Wine and Flavours Route, the village also offers the chance to sample, at local farm stays and farms, the typical produce and wines of the Bidente Valley hills.
Curiosities
The castle houses 14 precious glazed terracotta panels attributed to the school of Luca della Robbia, depicting the Stations of the Cross.
