Religious Romagna: a route exploring abbeys, hermitages and mosaics

Our journey begins right in the middle of the Po Delta.  Just a few kilometres from the town of Codigoro stands the magnificent Abbey of Pomposa.

The abbey dates back to the 6th–7th centuries, when there was a Benedictine settlement on what was then known as Insula Pomposia, a wooded island that was surrounded by two branches of the river and thus sheltered from the sea. 

The abbey is home to 

• medieval frescoes that clearly and directly portray biblical scenes, designed to educate and captivate viewers. 
• some of the most valuable fresco cycles in the entire province, inspired by Giotto 
• a magnificent mosaic floor. 

The compound is further enhanced by:

• The bell tower, which stands alone on the plain, and symbolises spiritual elevation
• The porticoed cloister, with a well at its centre, where the monks would spend their days in accordance with the monastic rule of ‘ora et labora’ 
• the refectory, the dormitory (now used as a museum) and the chapter house.

Curiosity

It was in Pomposa that musical notes first came into being: the monk Guido da Pomposa (c. 992–c. 1050), known as ‘d’Arezzo’, is in fact widely regarded as the inventor of the modern staff system. Born at Pomposa Abbey, he began his studies there and went on to become one of the most important music theorists of his time.

To know

Located not far from the valleys, on some days the compound is obscured by thick fog, creating a surreal and even more contemplation-inducing atmosphere.

A remote place where art and spirituality merge, inspiring visitors to pause for a moment of quiet contemplation.

Ravenna After turning onto the Romea road, the route continues on to Ravenna, an icon of Byzantine spirituality.

The Basilica of Saint Apollinaris in Classe still has its original structure and is renowned for the splendid polychrome mosaics in the apse and for the ancient marble sarcophagi of the archbishops that line the side aisles.

One of the most striking depictions is that of Saint Apollinaris with his arms raised in prayer, surrounded by twelve white lambs that symbolise the apostles, all set in a lush green landscape rich in symbolic meaning.  

The saint is immersed in a symbolic landscape; the jewelled cross at the centre and the figurative elements representing nature and animals are not simply decorative, but rather a means of conveying a profound spirituality, encouraging visitors to reflect and to allow the place to influence their perspective and spirit.

Indeed, it is a powerful symbolic language, where faith is expressed not through words but through the light and colours of the mosaics.

To know

The church, with its characteristic cylindrical bell tower, is one of the eight monuments in Ravenna designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Curiosity

Some of the walls of this magnificent basilica are now bare, as Saint Apollinaris has been stripped of its treasures on several occasions over the centuries, particularly by Pandolfo Sigismondo Malatesta, who in 1449 removed the marble panelling from the walls of the naves to use it in the construction of the Malatesta Temple of San Francesco in Rimini. The light and the mosaics, together, give the place a contemplative atmosphere, where art and spirituality come together.

Day two takes you to the hills of Forlì’s hinterland, to the Hermitage of Montepaolo di Dovadola where spirituality assumes a more intimate dimension, more closely linked to nature.

Today, visitors can reach this spot on foot via the picturesque “Sentiero della Speranza” (Trail of Hope): Tucked away in the woods, it sets the scene for a slow-paced experience, where every step forms part of an inner journey. 

To know

The hermitage, which is linked to the figure of Saint Anthony of Padua, features austere and unadorned rooms, where the simplicity of the space and the silence of the natural surroundings help visitors to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life. 

Must-sees

• a priceless relic of the saint
• the Grotto, which according to popular tradition served as the saint’s retreat, where he could withdraw in solitude and prayer.
• a trail decorated with mosaics depicting the key moments in the saint’s life.

The scenic lookouts along the route entice visitors to stop and take in the view, turning their visit into a moment of peace and contemplation.

To taste

If you visit in October, be sure to taste the highly prized white truffle – the exquisite Tuber magnatum Pico – at the festival that has been held in Dovadola. for over 50 years. After all, one cannot live on spirituality alone.

As you continue along the route, it leads to Sarsina, which is home to the Basilica of Saint Vicinio, one of the most important centres of worship in Romagna.  

The basilica, located in the main square of the village, was built around the year 1000 and houses the relics of the patron saint, venerated for his miraculous powers. 

Besides its religious significance, the basilica is also worth visiting for its medieval architectural features, with a simple yet majestic interior where light filters through the windows, creating an atmosphere of contemplation and tranquillity.  

To know

Sarsina is the starting point for one of the region’s 21 historic and spiritual trails: il Cammino di San Vicinio (The Trail of Saint Vicinio). The trail, with over 14 stages including alternative routes and connecting paths, crosses the Savio valley on both banks, reaching places of great religious significance such as the Hermitage of Camaldoli and the Sanctuary of La Verna..

Curiosity

Every year, pilgrims flock here, lured by the fame of its ‘chain’ – a sacred object which, according to tradition, Saint Vicinio was said to have used for protecting and healing. When the chain is placed around the necks of the faithful, it is accompanied by a prayer invoking blessings for both body and soul, making the visit a deeply personal and spiritual experience.

Event

Should you visit in spring, during the Sagra della Pagnotta Pasquale (Easter Loaf Festival) the unmistakable aroma of this symbol of Lenten and Easter traditions will greet you. A simple, authentic dessert that embodies the authenticity of the local peasant cuisine.

A still-vibrant place of devotion, where tradition and spirituality blend together in an authentic and unforgettable experience.