Romagna is a land where artisan traditions mingle closely with the history and identity of the territory.
Here, amidst hamlets and towns, ancient crafts survive thanks to the passion of craftsmen who, for generations, have passed down their techniques and know-how.
From the fine hemp cloths of Romagna, a symbol of peasant creativity, to the refined ceramics modelled with clay from the calanchi (ravines), each artefact is the expression of a deep bond with the land.
Today, craftsmanship continues to be a pillar of local culture in towns and hamlets, with long-standing workshops and new generations of artists who reinterpret traditional techniques in a modern key.
A journey through the excellences of Romagna, where "know-how" merges with art and passion, keeping crafts alive that defy time and innovation.
Our journey begins in the heart of Ferrara, where the art of Renaissance graffito ceramics still thrives in craftsmen’s workshops.
With the same techniques of the past, the Ferrara ceramists have been able to bring this refined artistic expression back to life, after more than four centuries; it developed at the Este Court between the 15th and 16th centuries.
Engraved ceramics, or graffito, are distinguished by their symbols, characters and court scenes, engraved by hand and decorated with a few primary colours that fire transforms into unique and vibrant shades. An ancient art that continues to astonish.
One of the most important collections dedicated to the Este period is kept in Palazzo Schifanoia, where you can admire over 800 pieces made between the 14th and 17th centuries.
To taste
Before continuing along the journey, take a break in one of the restaurants in the historic town centre to taste the Ferrara squash cappellacci (a kind of pasta) or the famous Ferrara pasticcio (a kind of pie): authentic Renaissance dishes inspired by the recipes of the court chef, Cristoforo da Messisbugo.
Let’s move south till we get to Ravenna to explore its splendid mosaic art.
Thousands of tiny stone and glass tiles make up the history of this ancient art that arrived in Italy through contacts with the East. The centre of Byzantine power in Italy, Ravenna has always been indisputably the home of mosaics, and it is no coincidence that, in seven of this city’s eight UNESCO monuments, it is possible to admire the richest part of the world’s heritage of ancient mosaics from the 5th and 6th centuries.
Strolling through its historic city centre, you can go into workshops where craftsmen transform tiny tiles into timeless masterpieces. Here, you can admire and, if you want, try to make your own small piece of mosaic art thanks to the numerous courses that are always available.
Tips
To taste
For dinner, try the Romagna cappelletti (a kind of pasta). Unlike their “cousins” from Emilia and the tortellini (a kind of filled pasta) from Bologna, here they are traditionally filled with cheese and served in capon broth, or with meat sauce.
On the second day, the first stop is Villanova di Bagnacavallo, a few kilometres from Ravenna.
Here, amongst reeds, wicker basketwork and paviera (sedges, marsh plants), the art of weaving marsh grasses tells the story of a community that has transformed natural resources into works of art.
The populations that lived in the Delta area (Ravenna, Argenta, Comacchio and Ostellato), in fact, have managed to make the most of the canna palustre (reeds) that grow spontaneously in these territories. This is how they began to create many objects of daily use (roofs, bags, mats, hats, baskets and even furniture), making do with the few economic resources available and developing a real art at the same time.
According to tradition, this form of craftsmanship made its first appearance in the area of Villanova di Bagnacavallo.
The right place to discover this ancient know-how and try weaving with your own hands is the Ecomuseo delle Erbe (Ecomuseum of Herbs), which documents the great skill in weaving developed over the centuries by the local inhabitants, and which continued to develop amidst environmental reconstructions, multimedia supports and evidence of community life.
Events
The ideal time to discover the craftsmanship of Bagnacavallo is certainly during the main events
After having lunch, enjoying an excellent Romagna piadina (unleavened flat bread) in which you can indulge yourself with any filling you want, we move on to Gambettola in the area near Cesena.
This last stop gives you the possibility to discover another technique that has been used in these territories since the 18th century: that of printing on canvas, a peasant tradition that came to life again in the areas around Forlì-Cesena, Ravenna and Rimini after a long period of oblivion.
This ancient handcrafted practice, an integral part of the historical and cultural heritage of Romagna, is a tradition that has its roots in the field of poverty craftsmanship, linked to the tools of essential peasant creativity.
The technique dates back to the 17th century, safeguarded by a dozen craftsmen in their printing houses scattered throughout Forlì-Cesena, Ravenna and Rimini: numerous products are still created today, rigorously hand-beaten by those who have chosen not to deviate from the traditional method, using colours obtained from rust or other "poor" minerals.
Among the great number of printing houses in the area that open their doors to visitors for guided tours and other initiatives, some are in Gambettola; that is why we recommend you end the tour here.
To know
Curiosities
The Associazione Stampatori Tele Romagnole is based in Cesena. Its aim is to protect the historical and cultural heritage of hand-printing on canvas, and it is made up of the union of printing houses that continue to use traditional processes.
We are convinced that you will be fascinated to discover how this centuries-old art is passed on from generation to generation.
