Romagna, a tenacious land and crossroads of peoples, wars and cultures, has over time carved an intangible heritage of tales, legends and superstitions, handed down from generation to generation. Its medieval walls, cobbled alleys, and fortresses that watch over the valleys evoke a past that still seems to whisper between the folds of the landscape.
There is a whole Romagna that cannot be found in tourist guides, which does not reveal itself at first sight, but allows itself to be discovered by those who know how to observe and listen. It is a land of shadows and whispers, of stories told in low voices by the fireplace, of fleeting apparitions among the ruins of a castle or in the foliage of a forest.
This itinerary will take you to the heart of the Forlì territory, to a dimension where history and mystery merge and the border between reality and legend becomes thin. You will walk among castles, quiet villages, paths immersed in a wild and authentic nature: an experience where, as they say in dialect, u s'vèd e u s'sènt, 'you can see and you can hear', even if you cannot always explain it.
An itinerary suitable for those who love art, history and evocative atmospheres, but also for those who seek a deep contact with the territory. The route is accessible, mainly on urban roads and easy paths, and can be done at any time of the year.
Starting from Forlì, pass Villa Rovere and following the signs for Terra del Sole.
Just before the village, a diversion to the right on Via Ciola leads, after about 2 km, to the point where you can leave your car. From here, a path leads to the Rocca of Monte Poggiolo, a place shrouded in intrigue and legends, marking the beginning of a fascinating journey through history and the unknown.
It is said that Caterina Sforza, had built a secret tunnel to escape in case of danger, that connected the fortress to Ravaldino in Forlì.
The white lady
But the real mystery lies in a 19th-century photograph, found by chance on a junk dealer's stall in Piazza ‘del Ferrovecchio’ in Forlì.
In the image, next to a man with clogs on his feet, a walking stick under his arm and a thick moustache, appears an unusual female figure in white, evanescent, almost unreal. She is said to be the spirit of a lady of the court, still bound to these walls.
An icon of the most mysterious Romagna, that ‘us'ved e us'sent’, where reality and legend have merged for centuries.
Today, the Rocca retains its imposing original external structure, but the interior is not accessible. Only accessible on foot, it offers breathtaking views of the countryside: try to capture the majestic bastions in a single shot. Who knows, you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a mysterious figure.
To taste
Among the area's oldest specialities, dating back to the Middle Ages, is possible to find spelt or ancient wheat bread, which was often accompanied by mature cheeses such as pecorino di fossa and a good glass of Sangiovese.
The hills of Monte Poggiolo, famous for their vineyards since ancient times, still continue to yield grapes of great quality, giving rise to some of the most intense and distinctive reds in Romagna.
From Monte Poggiolo, Following via Ciola in the direction of Terra del Sole, turn in via Sacco e Vanzetti and continue for about 3 km to Castrocaro Terme.
The town guards one of the most imposing fortresses in Romagna, the Castle of Castrocaro, protagonist of a tragic and heart breaking legend.
The cry of Margherita dei Conti
In the 13th century, Romagna was marked by a bloody feud between the consanguineous families of the Counts Calboli of Forlì and the Counts of Castrocaro.
In 1253, to put an end to the violence that pitted the two families against each other, Pope Innocent IV authorised an arranged marriage between the cousins Guidone dei Calboli and Margherita dei Conti.
But the young Margherita, betrothed to Guidone, was in love with another man. The night before the wedding, in despair, she threw herself off the highest tower of the castle.
It is said that those who venture near the fortress on moonless nights can hear her cries still echoing within the walls.
Diamantina, witch bride of the evil
Castrocaro is also home to the stories of Diamantina, a healer from Forlì who lived in the 17th century. Known for her skill in preparing remedies with herbs and natural substances, she was accused of witchcraft, perhaps for annoying someone or simply for her independence.
Having avoided being burnt at the stake only because of her advanced age, she was condemned to perpetual exile and took refuge at Sadurano, a hill near Castrocaro Terme, at the time covered with beech and chestnut trees, where she lived in a hut while continuing to practise her art.
The locals, while observing Diamantina with a certain diffidence, initially ignored her. However, it was not long before rumours spread that she had made a pact with the devil, the ‘bérr’ in dialect. Hence the nickname ‘bérra’, the devil's wife, a name still used today for that hill: ‘e’ mònt d'la bérra', the mountain of Beer (Monte della Birra).
The character of Diamantina, one of the best-known in the oral tradition of Romagna, is still evoked today in tales linking Beer Mountain to mysterious events and popular legends.
Tips
The Castle can only be visited at weekends, also with the possibility of themed guided tours, ideal for delving into legends, historical figures and architectural details.
To taste
In this land rich in wild herbs, one of the typical dishes has always been tortelli alle erbe di campo (tortelli with wild herbs), often cooked on a slab and seasoned with olive oil and garlic. Still offered in restaurants in the area, they are much sought after by those in search of ancient and authentic flavours.
Leaving Castrocaro Terme, drive about 16 km in the direction of Meldola. From here, follow Strada Rimbocca Cà Baccagli and turn onto Strada San Colombano - Castelnuovo. Continue along this road until you find an area where you can park your car near the ‘Castelnuovo’ tourist sign. From this point, a short walk of about 150 metres leads to the remains of the Castelnuovo Fortress.
Overlooking the valleys of the Bidente and Voltre rivers, the fortress preserves imposing fragments of its defensive architecture, witness to a thousand-year history of wars, conquests and mysteries. Once a strategic garrison, it belonged among others to the Calboli, Ordelaffi and Malatesta families and was also ruled by Caterina Sforza. From 1509 it came under the control of the Church.
Clarì, daughter of the castellan
Today, among the remains of the fortification, an ancient and haunting legend surrounds it: the story of little Clarì, daughter of the castellan.
During a bloody battle, the castle was destroyed and the family exterminated. Only Clarì and her nurse aunt Catéra managed to escape, finding refuge and hospitality with the lord of the nearby castle of Teodorano.
Years later, upon learning the truth about her parents' tragic fate, Clarì, who had become increasingly silent and introverted, disappeared without a trace. The nurse searched desperately for her, but in vain.
Since then, near the Rocca di Castelnuovo, it is said that on the darkest nights the wails and calls of the nurse, in search of her ‘lost child’, still resound.
From Meldola, continue south along the SP4 until reaching Cusercoli, a small village overlooking the Bidente river, dominated by the ancient baronial castle of the Counts Guidi and the ancient church of San Bonifacio.
The well-preserved castle still has its medieval elements: walls, courtyard, bell tower and the church of San Bonifacio, which dominates the village from the top of the cliff.
For generations, the inhabitants have told of strange nocturnal apparitions: mysterious silhouettes silhouetted against the castle windows, accompanied by inexplicable sounds echoing in the silence - clanging chains and solemn organ melodies.
The phenomenon appears even more enigmatic because those harmonies seem to come from the very church of St Boniface, where no musical instrument is present.
These stories, disturbing and fascinating at the same time, have attracted the attention of ghost hunters and paranormal enthusiasts over time, who see Cusercoli as one of the most suggestive destinations in secret Romagna.
From Cusercoli, you cross the territories of Santa Sofia and Corniolo until you reach Campigna, in the upper Bidente valley.
The locality is now part of the National Park of the Casentino Forests, Monte Falterona and Campigna, one of the most uncontaminated areas of the Tuscan-Romagna Apennines.
After turning right towards the locality of Fangacci and following the signs to the camper van area, park your vehicle and continue on foot along a dirt path of about 850 metres, which leads to the Fosso del Satanasso: a rugged and isolated valley, linked to the legend of the ghost of Mantellini.
The ghost of Mantellini
Living in the second half of the 18th century and was a rich and feared man. Suspected of practising black magic, he was exiled by order of Grand Duke Peter Leopold of Lorraine to the lands of Romagna, where he lived as a shepherd in a cottage together with a small goat.
According to legend, the Devil offered him a deal: in exchange for his soul, he could continue to commit misdeeds even after his death. Mantellini accepted, and from then on, his spirit began to haunt the area, causing bewilderment in the fog, terrorising wayfarers and freeing goats from the folds.
The frightened inhabitants invoked the help of an exorcist from the Sacred Hermitage of La Verna, who managed to confine Mantellini's spirit in the Fosso del Satanasso.
Even today, it is said that on the foggiest of days, disturbing noises and distant moans can be heard, and a shadow in a black cloak can be glimpsed, always accompanied by its faithful goat.
The legend of the Mantellini ghost is one of the most deeply rooted in the oral tradition of the Forlì Apennines. The association between forest, fog, rituals and black magic makes it an evocative destination for folklore and wilderness enthusiasts.
Curiosities
In the dense forests of Campigna, where centuries-old chestnut trees still stand today, nature offered shelter and sustenance. Already in the 18th century, chestnut flour was a precious ingredient for mountain communities, often used as a substitute for wheat. Castagnaccio - enriched with honey, walnuts and sultanas - was a small daily luxury in Alpine huts.
According to ancient popular beliefs, this cake was prepared and offered during propitiatory rites to obtain the benevolence of mysterious presences that were said to dwell among the branches of the forest and the blanket of fog.
