Art and culture were at home in those small but proudly independent lordships which, at a distance of more or less 1 hour on horseback, surrounded the town of Reggio Emilia: Scandiano, county of the Boiardo (lineage of the famous poet Matteo Maria Boiardo), Gualtieri, fief of the Bentivoglio, former lords of Bologna, Novellara and Guastalla, ruled by two branches of the Gonzaga and Correggio, principality of the homonymous family, which gave birth to one of the most famous Italian painters.
The “small capitals” were so lively and splendid that the town of Reggio Emilia itself attracted the wonderful artists who had already distinguished themselves in these brilliant courts. This is the example of Antonio Allegri, who was called to Reggio Emilia from nearby Correggio to paint the Sacra Notte (Holy Night) intended for the San Prospero Church; from the construction sites of the Scandiano fortress came Nicolò dell'Abate and from Novellara Lelio Orsi, one of the most significant personalities of Italian Mannerism.
With Ferrara lost in 1599, the duchy of the Este was reduced to only Modena and Reggio, and the small lordships fell one by one, victims of the territorial revenge of the Estensi: first Gualtieri (1634), then Correggio (1635), Scandiano (1643) and only much later, in the following century, Novellara. Although their autonomy has long since ended, still today these ancient lordships maintain the mark of their past splendor.
If you want to change course, if you appreciate good food and the hospitality of the people of the Po Valley, we recommend you to leave the main road and explore the routes of the Reggio Emilia province.
Scandiano is the birthplace of the poet Matteo Maria Boiardo and the scientist Lazzaro Spallanzani. The town’s symbol is the Rocca di Scandiano, originally built as a defensive castle and later transformed into a Baroque residence of the Dukes of Este.
In the Rocca’s courtyard you’ll find the Enoteca Regionale dell’Emilia Romagna, where you can taste high-quality local wines, including the standout Spergola di Scandiano, a white grape that has only recently gained international recognition.
Must-sees
To taste
A glass of Spergola di Scandiano to discover the fresh, aromatic character of the Reggio Emilia hills.
Tip
An ideal itinerary for those who enjoy combining history, art, and wine tasting; the Rocca is easily reached on foot from the historic center.
Correggio is famous as the birthplace of Antonio Allegri, known as the Correggio. Walking along Viale Mazzini, one appreciates the width of the main street and the porticoed palaces that tell the story of local nobility.
To see
To taste
Taste scarpasot, the local variant of erbazzone, a typical green pie from Correggio, awarded De.Co. (Denominazione di Origine Comunale) status in 2012.
Novellara, the small capital of the Gonzaga family, is located a short distance from the Po, immersed in an area rich in castles, fortresses and traces of a great past. Here you can follow in the footsteps of Lelio Orsi, a 16th-century artist who contributed to the town's urban reform, designing the Collegiate Church of Santo Stefano and creating frescoes now on display at the Gonzaga Museum, set up in the striking Rocca.
Must-sees
To taste
In the summer months, taste the Anguria Reggiana PGI watermelon; during the year, visit the Municipal Vinegar Works set up in the attic of the Rocca or discover Traditional Balsamic Vinegar PDO in local vinegar shops.
On the second day we explore the Bassa Reggiana, also ideal by bicycle, following the right bank of the Po for about 10 km. The municipalities in this area share a strong bond with the Great River, which has marked history, economy, culture and traditions. The route combines historic centers, natural environments and gastronomic excellence, including dairies, wineries, vinegar factories and local trattorias.
Travel tips
Guastalla: renaissance center par excellence worth a visit
Gualtieri: not to be missed is Piazza Bentivoglio, surrounded by Renaissance porticoes and dominated by Palazzo Bentivoglio, home of the Ligabue Museum. A Lambrusco wine with a ruby-red color and delicate foam, inspired by Ligabue's art, has also been dedicated to the local painter.
Boretto: river village rich in traditions related to the Po.
Brescello: town of Don Camillo and Peppone, where it is possible to retrace the places of the "little world" narrated by Giovannino Guareschi.
To taste
