Three days in Romagna Faentina: art, villages and nature

Faenza, capital of ceramics: its long tradition has earned Faenza the title of UNESCO Creative City for Crafts and Folk Arts, which find their highest expression here in ceramics. But Faenza is also a city of art, rich in museums, theaters, and historic buildings where Neoclassicism has left an indelible mark, which can be discovered by strolling through the city center.

Must-see

• MIC Faenza - International Museum of Ceramics: the MIC houses the world's largest collection of ceramics, over 60,000 works that take visitors on a journey through time from the Bronze Age to contemporaneity, exploring diverse cultures and civilizations. The museum houses artifacts from the the Far East, South America and the Mediterranean, alongside a rich collection of refined Renaissance Faenza ceramics and works by great artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Chagall and Fontana. The MIC is recognized by UNESCO as a "Monument to a Culture of Peace."
• Faenza's Municipal Art Gallery houses over 200 works, over history from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. In the main hall, you can admire Donatello's realist Saint Jerome and Marco Palmezzano's Madonna Enthroned with Child and Saints. The modern section houses works by Domenico Baccarini and the Baccarinian circle, testaments to Faenza's artistic ferment in the early 20th century, as well as the Bianchedi Bettoli Vallunga collection, including works by De Chirico, Savinio, Severini, Carrà, Sironi, Morandi, Campigli, De Pisis, and Casorati.
• Palazzo Milzetti - National Museum of the Neoclassical Age in Romagna in Faenza: the richest and most complete example of Faenza's elegant neoclassical style. Felice Giani's early 19th-century decorative cycles perfectly represent the culture and style of the time. Not to be missed are the Ballroom with episodes from the Aeneid, the Great Hall, focused on the myth of Apollo, depicted on his golden chariot on the vault, and the Antebathroom with a sumptuous decoration of blue cameos on a black background, culminating in the Wedding of Amphitrite on the vault.
• Carlo Zauli Museum: a hub for contemporary art in Faenza and for cultural production. The museum was established in the artist's studio and workshop, and visitors can follow his creative journey through an anthological exhibition, from primitivist-inspired ceramics to innovative stoneware, including majolica and interior decoration. The spaces also house a rich contemporary collection, established from the dialogue and experimentation of young artists.

Tip

Contemporary art lovers may continue their visit through the MAP Open-Air Museum of Contemporary art in Faenza, a widespread itinerary that takes art outside of traditional exhibition spaces, with 80 works by artists such as Rambelli, Matteucci, Biancini, Spagnulo, Nagasawa, Sottsass, Zauli, Sartelli, Stahler and Bombardieri.

Events

• Argillà Italia, International Ceramics Festival and Market Fair: biennial, on the first weeknd of September
• Faenza Prize, International Biennial of Contemporary Art Ceramics at MIC Museum

The second day of the itinerary is dedicated to the hills. Let’s start from Brisighella, Medieval village rich in traditions, architectural and natural beauties: Brisighella is one of the most beautiful Villages of Italy, “Orange Flag” of Italian Touring Club. The historic center, nestled in the rock, is dominated by three hills, gypsum pinnacles where Brisighella's main monuments stand.

Must-see

• Via degli Asini (Donkey Street): an elevated, covered walkway, nestled within the buildings and the rock. Originally built for defensive purposes, the road quickly became a way for transporting gypsum on the back of donkeys, from the nearby quarries. From Porta delle Dame, at the beginning of the walkway, a path leads uphill to visit the three hills.
• Clock Tower: built on the ruins of the castle of Maghinardo Pagani da Susinana, which Dante described in the Inferno as "the lion with the white nest that changes sides from summer to winter." A strategic defensive structure, the tower was rebuilt several times, finally reaching its final form in 1850, when the clock, with its characteristic six-hour face, was also added.
• Manfrediana Fortress: built starting from1310, it is one of the most impressive structures in the valley. It can be reached in 15 minutes from the Clock Tower. The fortress was enlarged and fortified during the Renaissance by the Manfredi family of Faenza, a period from which the Torricino (small tower) still stands. In the early 16th century, after the Venetian conquest of Romagna, the fortress was reconfigured with the construction of the big Venetian tower and new walls. The fortress houses the Museum of Man and Gypsum, exploring the community relationship with this territory and the mineral it is made of.
• Sanctuary of Monticino: just 10 minutes from the Fortress stands this place of calm and spirituality. The sanctuary originates from the devotion to the Madonna, foused on a votive ceramics that began attracting numerous pilgrims to Brisighella in 1626. The church was built on top of the hill, later called Monticino, in the 18th century in neoclassical style, precisely in response to the greta number of visits of the faithful.

Tips

• Enjoy the breathtaking view of the Lamone valley from the top of the Clock Tower hill.
• If you are a history and archaelogy passionate, then visit the medieval castles: Rontana Castle, embedded in the Vena Romagnola gypsum and Ceparano Castle, with its tank tower

Useful info

The path is just outside the centre, better with sportswear and trekking shoes.

The itinerary continues towards Casola Valsenio, a small village in the Romagna Apennines on the border with Tuscany, known as the Village of Forgotten Herbs and Fruits. Here, the charm of history blends with the scent of lavender and medicinal plants, in a multisensory experience.

Must-see

• Valsenio Abbey: The earliest records of the Benedictine abbey date back to the early 12th century, but the church stands on an early medieval foundation, some remains of which are still visible. The current church is the result of a 19th-century neo-Romanesque restoration, but beneath the apse lies the medieval crypt, once vaulted, the bases of the pillars still present. Outside, the cloister houses a 16th-century well.
• Il Cardello: The Alfredo Oriani House Museum, known as Il Cardello, stands on the site of the former guesthouse of the Valsenio Abbey. This typical Romagna noble residence was home to the writer Alfredo Oriani, who lived and wrote here between the second half of the 19th century and 1909. The rooms feature the original furnishings and the writer's extensive library.
• Herb Garden: the botanical garden designed by Augusto Rinaldi Ceroni for the cultivation and preservation of medicinal plants. The garden is home to a botanical heritage of 480 plant species used in cooking and cosmetics. The garden's highlight is lavender: twenty varieties of lavender, of different colors and scents, can be discovered and experienced during the many workshops and events scheduled.

Tip

In this area, wild herbs and ancient fruits are the basis of traditional cuisine, which can be tasted in the many restaurants offering special menus. A must-try is the ice cream flavored with forgotten fruits or medicinal herbs.

Events

Every year, on the second and third weekend of October, Casola Valsenio hosts the Forgotten Fruits Festival, an event that celebrates wild produce and encourages the rediscovery of fruits no longer used, but still important on the tables of Romagna cuisine.

On the third day, we head to Riolo Terme, to start the day in the name of relaxation! 

The town has been known since ancient times for its mineral-rich thermal waters, which flow from 60 springs in the Vena del Gesso Romagnola Regional Park.

Must-visit

• Riolo Thermal Baths: a place of tranquility and well-being, located inside a large park with centuries-old trees. At the spa, you can enjoy a break from the hustle and bustle of daily life, enjoying salt-bromine-iodine waters, thermal mud, and personalized treatments, in a stunning historical setting. The Art Nouveau spa was founded in 1877 and has retained its charm in its original spaces, complemented by modern pavilions.
• Rocca Sforzesca: a castle dating back to the 11th century and which reached its peak splendor during the Renaissance. Under the Manfredi family, from 1434, the fortress was fortified and expanded to withstand new firearms. But it was in 1481 that Riolo and its castle encountered the main protagonist of their history, Caterina Sforza, the tiger of Romagna. Caterina, relives in the many activities at the Rocca, as guided tours, stories, and shows, that will make your visit unforgettable.

Curiosity

The fortress houses the Faenza Apennine Landscape Museum and the Vena del Gesso Romagnola Regional Park Documentation Center. The archaeological section display artifacts from the Iron Age to the Roman period.

After the visit, let’s move a few kilometers away to reach Castel Bolognese. 

In Castel Bolognese, art and conviviality coexist in an agricultural landscape stretching from the plains to the foothills. The town was founded as a free village at the end of the 14th century, under the govern of Bologna. A few traces of the medieval castle remain, still visible in the urban fabric, but its history is deeply rooted in its community.

Must-see

• Angelo Biancini Open-Air Museum: The MaAB is an art itinerary dedicated to the sculptor and ceramist Angelo Biancini. Strolling through the center, you can admire numerous works by the artist, including the Mondina Romagnola from 1972.
• Mulino Scodellino: the last example of the many mills that were built starting from the Middle Ages along the so called Mills canal. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, the mill is linked to the founding of the free village of Castel Bolognese and the water supply structures needed for its operation. Here, you can enjoy authentic experiences and iexperience the Romagna's rural tradition with workshops, family activities, and tastings. The Scodellino Mill still produces it own stone-ground flour, which you can taste at one of the many events it hosts throughout the year.

Tip

Arriving from Riolo Terme, along the Via Casolana, you may stop at Serra, a sub-zone of the Romagna Sangiovese DOC, and enjoy a tasting of the quality wines in the many wineries located on the hills, among calanchi and broom bushes.

This small rural village is just a short drive from Castel Bolognese. Solarolo used to be an ancient lowland castle, located in a very coveted area, of which only a few traces remain visible in the historic center.

Must-see

Sanctuary of the Madonna della Salute: a place of peace and devotion in the Romagna countryside. The sanctuary houses a terracotta slipped relief image of the Madonna della Salute with Child.

Events

Every spring, Solarolo hosts the Ascension Day celebrations. The celebrations include a rich program of activities, food stalls, shows, and markets.