Free Emilia

The itinerary starts from Reggio Emilia, the city of the Tricolour, rich in places to discover. 
We recommend starting from the Musei Civici, a museum complex that is like an open-air history book. In fact, at the Palazzo dei Musei you can take a journey through time from the Palaeolithic to the 19th century. And what a journey!

What not to miss

• The Venus of Chiozza, a unique prehistoric statuette
• The archaeological trail, from Prehistory to the 18th century, passing through the Romans and the Este family 
• The photographs of Luigi Ghirri, a poetic journey through the Po Valley

Curiosities
The second floor of the museum, designed by architect and designer Italo Rota, is an immersive experience not to be missed. Check the opening hours on the official website, as some sections may have limited access on certain days. 

Staying in the city centre, we point out three more free museums:

• the Museo del Tricolore! A true national pride because here we are in the sanctum sanctorum of our Italian character. 
• the Museum of the History of Psychiatry, a truly surprising and intense place that demands silence and respect, with graffiti and testimonies of the patients of the former San Lazzaro hospital. The museum is located on the San Lazzaro Campus, accessible by bus no. 2 from the city centre.
• the Mauriziano, the villa where Ludovico Ariosto spent his holidays... because even the great poets needed a break. Recently renovated, it is surrounded by the Rhone River Park. It is located about 4 km from the centre and can be reached by bus no. 9.

Curiosities
In the Sala del Tricolore - today used for city councils and weddings - our flag was born on 7 January 1797.

Tip
If you love literature and poetry, the Mauriziano is a must-see! Inform yourself in advance as it is currently open during events and initiatives.
All these museums are easily accessible by public transport from the railway station, while the Museo del Tricolore and the Musei Civici are only a few minutes' walk from each other in the historic centre.

Then, as icing on the cake (or rather, on the erbazzone, to keep with the local theme), we continue the trip with a visit to the Collezione Maramotti, the contemporary art gallery housed in the former Max Mara headquarters.
And we assure you that when fashion marries art, the results are always interesting. The Collezione Maramotti is located about 2 km from the city centre and is easily reached by bus no. 1 or no. 4.

Speaking of contemporary art: look up in the Panizzi Library. That swirl of colours you will see is Sol LeWitt's Whirls and Twirls 1, thirteen metres of wonder.

Contemporary art here is always free and accessible to all.

Returning to classicism and the centre, there are several treasures of art and spirituality to admire: 

• Basilica della Ghiara, with a Crucifixion by Guercino that will leave you breathless.
• Basilica of San Prospero, with Camillo Procaccini's majestic Last Judgement in the apse.
• Reggio Emilia Cathedral, with a rare gilded copper ‘Madonna and Child with the Fiordibelli couple’, a 16th-century work by Spani, on the façade.

Tip
Take a walk among these churches to admire some of the greatest Baroque masterpieces.

As the day draws to a close, all that remains is to rest and enjoy typical Reggio dishes such as cappelletti in broth and erbazzone (a savoury pie with chard and herbs), perhaps accompanied by a good lambrusco. The rest will be well deserved because the next day will be just as intense!

We continue the itinerary by moving on to Parma to enjoy other free treasures:

• Cathedral and San Giovanni Evangelista, with its domes frescoed by Correggio.
• Church of San Francesco del Prato, an extraordinary example of Gothic architecture returned to the city after centuries of use as a prison.

These churches are all located in the historic centre of Parma, a short distance from each other and within easy walking distance of the railway station (about 15-20 minutes).

Tip
Entering these churches will immerse you in the history of Italian art.

Parma is the capital of music. Great composers and conductors have lived and worked here, and the city celebrates its connection with music through free venues that tell of this unique tradition.

Staying in the area, on Piazzale San Francesco, you can also admire:

• Casa della Musica (Palazzo Cusani), a music documentation and research centre housed in a historic building.
• Casa del Suono (House of Sound), located in the former Church of Sant'Elisabetta, narrates the evolution of sound reproduction instruments, from radio to digital.

Oltretorrente, near the Parco Ducale instead, you can visit:

• Arturo Toscanini's birthplace, a small museum collecting documents, memorabilia and photographs of the great conductor, who was born in Parma. Here, every object still seems to vibrate with the Maestro's notes, as if the walls retained the echo of his most famous conductors, ready to tell the story of a musical genius who made Emilia a temple of world music.

Tip
Strolling through the centre, stop at the Teatro Regio, one of the temples of opera, which often opens free of charge for special events or guided tours by appointment.

Here too everything is free, like at the supermarket when there is a Parmigiano Reggiano cheese tasting (also to be enjoyed locally!), but infinitely more nourishing for the spirit.

Parma is not only a city of art and music, but also a place where culture is accessible to all. Here you can admire great works for free and discover the playful and theatrical soul of popular tradition.

Continuing on to Borgo del Parmigianino you can visit:

• Pinacoteca Stuard, located in the Complesso di San Paolo, houses a collection from the 13th to the 19th century, with works by Parmigianino, Tiepolo and other Emilian masters.
• Basilica della Steccata, an evocative place with frescoes by Parmigianino.
• Castello dei Burattini, a unique museum recounting a world of wood and fantasy, where hundreds of puppets tell centuries of popular art, magic and storytelling, preserving the most authentic and playful soul of Italian puppet theatre.

Tip

• The Castello dei Burattini organises free shows at the weekend: a perfect opportunity to discover this art form with the little ones!
• Choose your weekend visit well: the majestic Monumental Complex of the Pilotta and the fascinating Antica Spezieria di San Giovanni open their doors free of charge on the first Sunday of the month.

After a day full of art and culture, end the evening with a typical Parma dinner: tortelli d'erbetta, anolini in broth and, of course, Parmigiano Reggiano accompanied by a glass of Colli di Parma wine. Tomorrow Piacenza awaits us!

We then come to the city of Piacenza, which never ceases to amaze. Called the city of 100 churches, we start our discovery from three sacred buildings:

• Piacenza Cathedral, a kaleidoscope of marbles, capitals and Romanesque details that tell centuries of history. From below, the dome frescoed by Guercino makes us feel small, while Ulisse Sartini's hyper-realist Last Supper immerses us in a true snapshot of life.
• Basilica of San Savino, famous for its zodiac mosaics.
• Basilica of Sant'Antonino, dedicated to the patron saint of the city and witness to centuries of history. Inside is a heritage of frescoes, relics and medieval architecture: it will be like leafing through a collective family album, where every stone has a story to whisper.

All these churches are located in Piacenza's historical centre, a short distance from each other and within easy walking distance from the railway station (about 10-15 minutes).

Tip
Look up: Guercino's dome is a breathtaking spectacle, which you can see up close with a special tour (to be booked, for a fee).

In addition to its great Romanesque basilicas, the city hides Renaissance and Baroque jewels that are well worth a visit.
What ‘else’ to see

• Church of San Sisto, a Renaissance masterpiece that once housed Raphael's famous Sistine Madonna (now in Dresden). A copy of the work can still be seen in the church, returning the work to its original context.
• Santa Maria di Campagna, a historic place for the Farnese family, who celebrated baptisms, victories and prayed in difficult times here. It was Pordenone who frescoed the extraordinary dome that we can still admire.

Both of these churches are about a 10-15 minute walk from the Cathedral.

Curiosities
It was in the Piazzale Santa Maria di Campagna (since then known as Piazzale delle Crociate) in front of it that the proclamation of the First Crusade was held.

Council
Inside Santa Maria di Campagna, you can visit the frescoed dome up close (booking required), thanks to a guided tour that allows you to climb up and admire the frescoes from just a few metres away!

Piacenza never ceases to amaze. In addition to its many churches, the city holds other fascinating places that tell stories of distant eras and urban transformations.

What to see

• Palazzo Gotico, an admirable example of medieval Lombard architecture, is the beating heart of Piazza Cavalli. Like an elegant old gentleman, it is only open to the public on special occasions: during exhibitions, it opens its doors free of charge.
• Antiquarium di Santa Margherita, a small but precious archaeological museum that preserves Etruscan, Roman and mediaeval finds, offering a glimpse of Piacenza's historical stratification, like a puzzle of collective memory.
• Ex Chiesa del Carmine, a building that has gone through centuries of transformations and is now an innovative cultural space, where the past dialogues with the present.

All these places are located in the historical centre of Piacenza, within easy walking distance of each other.

Tip
If you have the opportunity to visit during a special event, enter the Palazzo Gotico to admire its frescoed rooms and ancient 14th-century structure up close.

For the last stages of this itinerary, we move on to contemporary art by visiting:

• XNL, a modern cultural container that is like a bright young man: unpredictable, dynamic, always ready to surprise when open for exhibitions and installations.
• Galleria Ricci Oddi, a collection of modern art that is a journey into the soul of 20th century artists, from faces to landscapes, from portraits to still lifes (open free of charge one day a month, to be checked).

Tip
In the Ricci Oddi Gallery take a few extra minutes to admire Klimt's mysterious Portrait of a Lady, rediscovered after decades! Its story is truly incredible, it has more twists and turns than a mystery novel!

Conclude your trip by tasting the typical tortelli con la coda, pisarei e fasò (bread dumplings with beans) and coppa piacentina, accompanied by a glass of the local Gutturnio wine. A perfect way to greet Emilia, which, even at the table, knows how to be generous without asking for much in return!