The areas between Modena and Bologna are home to a wealth of castles, fortresses, historic villas and legends that captivate the traveller.
This 72 hour-itinerary offers an unusual journey through the homes of ancient noble families, among the echoes of mysterious events and the indelible traces left by ladies, knights, alchemists and dragons.
The route takes place mainly by car, with stops distributed between the plain and the Apennine foothills. Each stop is designed to combine the cultural aspect with narrative pleasure: each place holds a legend, an enigma or a secret that feeds its charm.
Amidst spectacular Renaissance courtyards and medieval fortresses, secret rooms and missing frescoes, this itinerary aims to inspire a new way of discovering this part of Emilia: through its stories.
The itinerary is designed to last 72 hours, but it is advisable to consider a possible one-day extension, depending on your pace and interests.
This journey begins in Carpi, an elegant town on the Modena plain with an important historical and cultural heritage dating back to the Renaissance.
This was the headquarters of the Signoria di Carpi and then county of the Pio family. Walking through its arcades and in its courtyards, you can sense the grandeur of a court that was not only political, but also cultural, with artists and scholars in attendance.
The majestic Palazzo dei Pio is the greatest testimony to the power and prestige of the Pio family, which ruled here until the 17th century. As one of the most important architectural complexes in the region, its structure brings together different styles – medieval, Renaissance and Baroque – as evidence of its worth.
Like any ancient noble residence that respects itself, the palace - commonly referred to as the Castle - is the protagonist of many a mysterious tale.
The legend of the "White Lady"
Bianca was a beautiful aristocratic lady, wife of the Signore (nobelman) of the city. But her husband, a cruel man riven with jealousy, ended up killing her by throwing her from the Passerino Tower, the tallest point in the palace. Before dying, the woman cast a curse: anyone who saw her ghost, enshrouded in a white gown, would die horribly after atrocious suffering. And so it happened: the Signore dei Pio, after casting his eyes on the ghost of his wife, died a long and painful death. Since then, it is said that the White Lady continues to wander around the castle... and there are those who swear they really saw her.
Curiosities
The palace is also an interesting contemporary memorial site since it houses the Museum and Monument to Political and Racial Deportees: if it is a topic of interest to you, see the dedicated itinerary.
Tips
By purchasing the Carpi Card you get free access to this and seven other monumental sites.
Moving on to Fiorano Modenese, you can visit Spezzano Castle.
The castle dominates the valley with its horseshoe layout and an elegance that mixes medieval and Renaissance architecture. Originally a military fortress, it was transformed in the 16th century into a noble residence by the Pio di Savoia family.
Like all castles, it needed a prison, but this elegant country residence has a peculiarity: there are at least 4 documented jails.
It is adorned, as often happens, with inscriptions by the prisoners. Some have very appealing texts and various drawings can be found:
Curiosities
The castle is home to the Museum of Ceramics, dedicated to the history of the renowned ceramics production district.
Tips
Admission (free) does not include the guided tour but you can easily download the audio guide
The stops in the Modena area end in Spilamberto, an ancient medieval village whose traces are still visible today.
The destination is the Torrione, a symbol of the city located at the main entrance of the town.
Climbing its narrow steps, you enter a world infused with medieval atmosphere and mystery...
Just like that of Messer Filippo, a 16th century merchant who came to Spilamberto to offer his silks and merchandise to the beautiful lady of the castle and fell in love with her. But it was this forbidden love that led to his death, after languishing in the tower's prisons.
As he awaited his torturous fate, he carved his story on the stone walls.
Legend has it that, before he died, Messer Filippo looked at the sky and made his sad lament heard. It is said to still echo among those walls on summer nights.
Curiosities
The first stop in Bologna leads to the hills of the Bolognese Apennines, near Grizzana Morandi.
The Rocchetta Mattei castle is one of the most fascinating destinations in Bologna because it simply defies definition.
Built by Count Cesare Mattei in the second half of the 19th century, this dreamlike citadel is famous for its eclectic architecture, blending medieval, Moorish and Art Nouveau styles to create an absolutely unique whole. The count, a self-taught doctor, politician and inventor of the so-called electrohomeopathy cure, wanted to create a mysterious place full of secret rooms and hidden passages.
It is said that some rooms were intended for obscure healing rituals, whose nature remains a mystery to this day.
Tips
Open only on weekends and holidays with guided tours every hour. Places are limited and sell out quickly, so it is best to book as soon as you know the date of the trip.
Moving south towards the hills between Imola and Castel San Pietro we find the Rocca di Dozza, a fortress that dominates this brightly painted village with its imposing brick mass.
Built in the 13th century and becoming a stately residence over time, the castle is today a treasure chest of art and mystery. Dark legends and disturbing fairy tales have endured within its walls for centuries.
Mystery 1: the “razor well” and the wrath of Caterina Sforza
Inside the Main Tower is a place that has fed fears and stories for centuries: the infamous "razor well", named for the presence – according to legend – of sharp blades along its walls.
It is said that Caterina Sforza, the famous "Tigress of Forlì", used this well as an means of punishment for traitors: the unfortunate victims were thrown down it and the blades prevented any chance of escape, thus condemning them to a cruel end.
Despite the lack of any historical basis, the story alone is enough to make this corner of the fortress dark and chillingly magnetic.
Mystery 2: The Fyrstan Dragon and the Biennial Awakening
But Dozza also has a fantasy side. A second legend tells of Fyrstan, a dragon that, around 1062, took refuge in the castle after being discovered in the swampland woods near the village.
It is said that the dragon, after sowing terror among peasants and livestock herds, was confronted by the inhabitants... but no one managed to bring it down. Fyrstan then retired to the depths of the fortress and since then he has slept, protected by spells. He only wakes up for two days every two years, on the occasion of the FantastikA Illustration Biennale, held during even years and celebrating his legend with artworks, stories and shows.
This stop is immersed in the greenery of the Bolognese Apennines: in the sleepy hamlet of Ponte Rizzoli, we find the Paciu Maison, a historic villa with a discreet and decadent charm, surrounded by a aura of mystery and bohemian charm.
Belonging to the Pacchioni family, who were textile entrepreneurs, the house was for years a setting for in-crowd gatherings, cultural evenings and lavish parties. Its interiors still resound with the eccentric spirit of an era of unconventional elegance.
But some of the rooms are said to harbour disturbing presences. The tales of unexplained lights and nocturnal whisperings have fed its aura of mystery over time, making it one of the most mysteriously enigmatic residences in the province of Bologna.
